Walking into the walled city of Pamplona after walking 15 miles I walked through the streets as people lingered in coffee shops, ate family dinners in restaurants during the usual siesta time. All day we didn't see one place open, its Sunday after all. I realized this and stocked up on Saturday. No cars are allowed in the walled part of the city, and rows of buildings strut a rainbow of color. I followed two women one from Victoria, BC the other from some where else in Canada. One of them had walked the Camino before and seemed to know where she was going. We went around and around finally asking someone where the big square was. When we made it to the square several pilgrims I knew sat at a sidewalk table enjoying some wine.
I asked several where they were staying. Suzanne who was in my room last night said she stayed at the cathedral. The main church part has been made into a Albergue, just look for the signs she said you can't miss it. I walked away to look for it. Just then Garnet walked by and said there was a spair bed in his hotel room which cost him E30. I agreed to share the room. We went up to the room to let the people know there would be another person in the room.
Garnet went out, I stayed to enjoy a shower that wouldn't run out of hot water and that no one was standing in line waiting for. Then I washed some underwear hanging them on the heater to dry, I spot washed a couple of other things. Then I want back to the square to get something to eat. Carlos who I have eaten dinner with the last two nights was there with a guy from Australia that I didn't know. By this time all the restaurants closed and the bars only had a few tapas left. We each grabbed a few tapas ordered a drink to hold us over until 8pm when the restaurants reopen.
I expected pilgrims to celebrate big time now that there were a lot of options here in Pamplona a great city. After last night in Zubiri a small town with a population of 400 where things got a little wild. I stayed at the Albergue right across from the popular Bar Valentin. I walked in for dinner all 7 tables filled with pilgrims. I saw Carlos and Philippa so I walked over and asked if I could join their table. Sure all four at the table said in unison. I borrowed a chair from the table next to them and sat down. The server sat a place mat and silverware in front of me right away. I ordered a salad, the best salad of the trip so far by the way. Someone yelled it was someone's birthday.
All of a sudden the music turned up loud, the guy behind got up and started dancing with a white napkin like he was a Male stripper. The people went wild clapping and cheering him on. I turned around and recognized him as one of my room mates. As the song came to a close he bowed started to sit down when the woman bar tender jumped on the bar and started to dance. People started clamping and cheering all over again. The other four at my table ordered another bottle of wine. I left, tired after a days walk, and besides I don't drink.
Back in the room it took a while to wind down from the bar. So when Pamploma turned out to be such a tame night, I realized wild nights can happen any time, in any town big or small on the Camino. I got the best nights sleep in that hotel room in Pamplona where no one snored, came in late or talked to their neighbor.
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