Best Day Yet

It actually started yesterday evening.  I got one of the last beds in town, showered, washed a couple of things and went down the road to have a soda with friends. The town was a buzz with pilgrims enjoying the great weather even with the uphill climb all day.

In the morning I started at my usual 6:30 am.  Leaving a small town before sunset isn't always easy, this morning the moon only showed a sliver of light.  The first part of the day went up hill. 

When I reached the high point of this side of the mountains the sun burst with all its morning colors right at the cross where pilgrims throw rocks.  Legend says that when

the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella was being built, pilgrims were asked to bring a stone.  The tradition is to bring a stone from where your from, with the pilgrims back to the cross the pilgrim throws the stone symbolizing their journey.  Before I left I remembered I had a stone with the outline of Vashon, I forgot it.  Today I picked up one of the stones someone placed on a Camino sign just before getting to the cross.  I turned my back to the cross, kissed the stone and as I threw the stone I said outloud, "Thank you Camino de Santiago."  I walked on with the day's light guiding me.

The day continued with great views, blooming flowers, and warm sunshine.  I think winter has finally moved on. (I hope)

Great Place, Happy Town, Still Happy

Walked out of Astorga happy.  What a town. Part of the reason I'm  happy is because of all the people that have made comments on my blog and on Facebook I want to thank all of you.  These comments have inspired me to keep moving forward and give me a piece of home here on the Camino.

Last night I ate in the square, where families gathered, children played and pilgrims gathered.  Astorga is alive.  So many of the towns we go through are dying, and they feel like their dying.  Rural Spain depends so much on the Camino for their economy.

Today though was a happy day.  The winter seems to have backed off, the sun shone with temperatures reaching into the 70's.  We climbed up from Astorga 500 meters to Foncebadon where I'm staying to night.  My Camino friend Philippa's birthday is today.  The crowd I've been traveling with made a plan to meet up here in Foncebadon for the shindigs.  Haven't seen a lot of these friends

since the first night I was in Leon.  Hail hail the hangs all here.

Still no blisters, my sore muscle is healed and I for one love the hills.  It reminds me of home.  And the spring/summer, it just doesn't get better than that.  I also had a long phone call with my sweetie.  With only about 150 miles left I'm full confidence.

One Bad Albergue Can be Discouraging

Yesterday after aI left  Villadangos  I walked another 6 miles to the Sana Martin Albergue.  Sylvia, an English woman, and I arrived at the registration desk at the same time.  We both asked for bottom bunks.  The proprietor said he didn't have any.  I noticed on the counter a room with two single beds for 20 Eros.  I looked at Sylvia and asked if she'd mind sharing a room.  She didn't hesitate with a yes.  The room felt cold as soon as we walked in.  Never did find a heater in that room.   First on my agenda, a hot shower.  The shower only had cold water making it a quickie.

Outside in the yard tables with umbrellas sat along the walkway.  The sun shone bright and warm.  Called home via Facebook a couple of times, the connection not so good.  As in so many places the Albergue was the only place to get something to eat. 

The food was good I just wasn't that hungry after the big lunch I had had earlier.  I asked about what time I could get hot water for coffee.  The proprietor said the place is locked up until 7:30 am.  I like to leave at about 6:30 am.

Sylvia turned out to be a great roommate.  She's raised money for Parkinson's for her walk.  She gardens, has kids.  We had a lot in common.  Today, the next day, I got up early and so did Sylvia.  I dropped my pack at the front door with the transport slip filled out and the required 5 Eros in the envelope.  Sylvia and I started walking together, she's fast, so I finally said go on ahead I'm slowing down.

As I look back at the walk today is has been one of the best. Found a great coffee place in about four miles, Sylvia sat eating her breakfast so I slipped in the other side of the booth with my coffee and roll.  The couple I ate dinner with was in the booth behind me.  Looking around in this town I wished I'd had enough energy yesterday to to go a little further.  From there the next town was about 2 or 3 miles, and there sat at a sidewalk table three Americans I hadn't seen in a while and an Irish guy I hadn't seen

in a while.  I sat down for a rest and some good conversation.  This was going to be a 15 mile day.  The sun shone bright  all day as the terrain started to get some ups and downs along with some great views.

I entertain myself with taking pictures.  There's always something catching my eye. Two problems worried me all day.  Will my pack get the Albergue and will they have a bed.  I thought about getting a phone to make calls reassuring these two necessities for a while now.  Thinking it would just take one more miss shipped bag to make a cheap prepaid phone worth it.

As yesterday day I walked into Siervas de Maria, the first Albergue, thinking if my bag is there I may try another one, if my bag wasn't there I only hoped they would help me recover the pack from where ever it is.   As soon as I walked in this Albergue I felt welcomed and at home.  My pack was there, got a bottom bunk, a hot shower and am washing and
drying almost everything I own including my sleeping bag.  I'm writing this out on a covered porch with this view while waiting for the dryer to be done.  Life is good today.

The Landscape is Changing

As soon as I got beyond Leon I could see snow capped mountains in three directions. In theee days we'll start the mountain climb again.  Hopefully with

the next couple of days of nice weather the snow will be melted.  Mostly on my own now I decided to stick to the main route.

The guide book I've been following suggestion for today's stopping point, Villadangos del Paramo.  When I arrived I walked right through town without seeing a sign for the one and only Albergue.  The marked route took us through on a side street.  I turned left to get to the main street found a restaurant, went in showed a man my book, pointing to the Albergue description.  He pointed me back to the way I came in. After asking several people the last person pointed to the picture in the book.  Now I knew what I needed to look for.  Found it right away.

By the time I got to the Albergue I'd already decided I wanted to go the 5km to San Martin del Camino but I needed to pick up my pack.  I looked around found the packs delivered by the transport company, mine wasn't there.  The proprietor ignored me at first, walking away.  Then walking around, I approached him and said, "Are you going to help me call my hotel or should I go somewhere else?"  He walked to the front desk, pulled out his phone.  I got my pad of paper and wrote Petit Leon Hotel.  He dialed the number then handed me the phone.  The guy on the other end said he sent the pack by a different transport and the pack should arrive in about an hour or two,

Seeing how it was past noon I went back to the restaurant to get lunch.  On the way I found a Comino credential,  thinking someone wouldn't want to lose this I picked it up off the ground.  I opened it and guess what, it was mine.  Guess I wasn't tracking very well having already gone 13 miles, not finding the Albergue nor my bag.  Luckily I ate a great lunch, just what I needed.  As I walked back to the Albergue I prepared myself not to expect my bag there.

When I walked in the door of there sat my bag.  I swung it on my back told the proprietor thank you and took off down the road to the next town.  As I walked I

kept noticing motorcycle police riding down the road.  Lots of them.  I decided its either some kind of special event or it's the president of Spain about to come down the road.  It turned out to be a bicycle race.

Here's some photos for all my bicycle friends.  I'm save and sound at the Albergue in San Martin del Camino for the night.

A Day of Rest

Promised myself Leon would be a city of rest for me after 300 miles of walking.  I booked a hotel for two nights to get some time to myself.  Haven't done this since St Jean.  With a rest day comes errands.  Upon arrival I go over the list of the what I've left behind either on purpose by accident or what I thought I wanted along the way.  I've left my head lamp but replaced it perty quick because a flashlight of some kind is a must in any dormitory.  I've replaced my shampoo, which I'm doubling as soap which I forgot somewhere. I've left my five day pill box but can't find a replacement.

Ditched my heavey socks because they seemed to have a potential of giving me blisters.  I've gotten a new pair but after walking in rain, snow, and hail all day I don't want to be stuck with just one extra pair of socks so here in Leon I found a pair with built in liners.  We'll see how they do.  Some insight into shoes or socks no matter what your past experience is there is no guarantee you won't get blisters.  I met a woman a couple of days ago, she's doing her second Camino.  She said she owned two pairs of hiking shoes, the old pair she hiked with before and a new pair.  She opted to bring the old pair because they never gave her blisters leaving the new pair at home.  The old pair is now giving her blisters.

Other elements have been on my mind, one of which is the wind.  The winds on the Camino sometimes come on in an instant accompanied by dark clouds at least up until now. Or as the day goes on the wind builds never allowing the sun to warm us along the path.  Another base layer might come in handy if I walk in the rain again.  I don't want to be caught at an Albergue that doesn't have a dryer to dry my one pair of hiking socks and one base layer I brought with me.  Besides I'm always looking forwindproof layers for other activitlike bicycling and sailing.  I found the perfect base layer here in Leon.

The end of the rest day and I'm ready to start walking tomorrow.  The weekend's weather is looking good.

Coming into Leon

Approaching any city, town or village along the Camino you see the steeple of the church or cathedral at the center of the community before you see the rest of the town.  These religous structures built centuries ago remind us today of the Roman and Moore influence in the area.  The Cathedrals in Burgos and Leon exemplify gothic architecture.  I've visited both of them now and I would be hard pressed to come up with which one I would say is the best, is the most beautiful.

Coming into Leon rounding a hill the cathedral showed me where the path

would take me.  It told me where the old part of the city is.  The distance seemed overwhelming even after all the walking I've done.

Visiting the cathedral here in Leon today gave me some insights into the other churches I've visited along the way.  I know nothing about gothic architecture.  What I learned today, is the cathedral structures became possible because of the new ceiling support structures that give the ceilings of all the churches I've been in, an artist pattern.

The Cathedral of Burgos (Santa María de Burgos) is, along with the Cathedral of León, the largest Gothic construction on the French Way, and in Spain. Declared a World Heritage Site in 1984, the famous needles on the tops of the towers are very recognisable, a type of decoration that is typical of the German late Gothic style.  The fine carved textures design on these famous needles brings to mind fine lace when I look at them.

The stone figures at every turn fascinate me.  The Virgin Mary more prominent then I would have thought.

A Much Needed Day

After a day of cold and snow, I settled into the Albergue in Mansilla.  Took a somewhat warm shower, got my wet clothes dried, worked at drying my shoes at the

one heater between the two dorm rooms upstairs in the building at the other end of the courtyard.   Hung out with some people I hadn't seen in a couple of days. The Internet can only be accessed down stairs either in the office, which was the warmest room in the place,or the kitchen, the second warmest room in the place.

Asked the woman in the office where a good restaurant was.  She directed me to on just a couple of blocks away.  Great choice, they served the best roasted bass I've eaten in a long time.  We've crossed over into a new food region, the potatoes come in a home cooked potato chip style.  For dessert I could even get decaffeinated coffee with milk to go along with the cheese cake.  The hot drink warmed my insides.  As I left the restaurant I spotted the two women who ran the office at the Albergue in the bar.  I popped in and said thank you, I had a great meal.

Back at the Albergue the kitchen buzzed with activity.  Two home made meals, wine and good conversation lingered at the tables.  I sat at the table where I

heard English, and new most of the people.  I talked to the young Irish guy who studies to be a chef.  The first thing he said to me was, "good job today, the Irish woman said you inspired her to keep going through the snow."  He pushed his, body back in the the chair, acknowledge the the women, she raised her glass to me, I did the same in the true Camino spirit we were thankful of each other.

The next day was an easy 11 mile day into Leon where I have booked a hotel room for two nights just for me, aaaaah a room of one's own.  This thought kept me going all next day.  Great full the threatening rain never poured on me.

Wrong Path, Snow, Hail, Rain

Yesterday the terrain on the map looked just like the day before.  Several of us decided to take the green path, the more scenic way.   From the beginning I worried about finding the turn off.  Alternative routes aren't always marked well.  Sure enough I ended up in Bercianos instead of Calzadilla.  My pack and friends will be in
Calzadilla.  As soon as I arrived in Bercianos I found the Albergue, walked in and asked if it would be possible to catch a taxi to Calzadilla.  The proprietor made a phone call, holding the phone he asked me if 25 Eros was OK.  How could I say no, all my things were in Calzadilla and my friend had been kind enough to make a reservation for me.  I agreed.  When he got off the phone he told me it would be 20 minutes.

That taxi cab ride was well worth it.  The place we stayed had great showers, heated floors, sheets on the beds and pillow cases on the pillows, and the bathroom was a typical house bathroom with a shower, a toilet and a lockable door for privacy.  The HOT shower in private was the best.  Oh ya, the beds weren't bunk beds.  We only had four in the room and we all knew each other.

We all had dinner together with a couple of additions of other people staying at the Albergue.  This Albergue was family run with kids following the parents around.  I slept good and eat well.  At breakfast we all compared weather predictions, snow stood out.  Several people staying at the other Albergue in town came in for some coffee and breakfast.  They reported it was only drizzling outside now.  I suited for a day of rain and walked out.  By the time I got to the edge of the small village the rain came down harder, then hail mixed in, then snow.  For quite a while it just snowed.  I walked switching my hands with wet gloves into a pocket in my gortex jacket to warm up then the next.  I didn't look at my smart watch, didn't look at the map, just mindlessly walked.  Watching for those yellow arrows to make sure I was on the right path.

After I don't know how long I came upon a town with signs advertising an Albergue just down the road.  Several pilgrims gathered going in that direction.  When we arrived there two pilgrims in the lobby.  We walked in.  The place was empty.  There were five of us.  We took off the first wet layer, ate lunch, got hot drinks out of the coffee machine for one euro.  Then a truck drove up, some guy got out with keys in his hand.  He looked in, got an angry look on his face.  He tried the front door and realized it had been left open.  We said hello and that we would be leaving.  He walked right by us, unlocked the door to the dining room, we left.  I had walked 10.63 miles, in four hours, only four more miles to go to Mansilla and hopefully warm clothes, a hot shower and some rest.

Stream of Thoughts on the Meseta

The meseta is a metaphor for life.  Some say life is boring, some rush through the meseta to get out of the boring landscape.  I say when life or the landscape gets boring is the time to look inward, when the land gets flat it's time to start thinking.

A couple of days ago at an Albergue some asked the question, "What did you think about on the trail today?"  I realized then, I forget about what I think about during my walk.  So a couple of days ago walking through the meseta I started jotting down my thoughts.  Here are`s a list.

The walking rhythm of the meseta;
da dooo  da dooo
da doot doot doot

Where have all the food trucks gone

What crops are growing

No ones ever in the fields

So many towns are empty, empty enough to call them ghost towns

Where would one go bird watching

Love the linen curtains in the windows in town

There are more pilgrims on the path than cars on the road

A town on the map may not have a lunch spot

Today we hit the midway point

When I don't see a yellow arrow within 100 meters of one I start to get nervous

Easter Dinner

Arrived in Carrion about 10:30 am after a short 12 mile walk today.  The Albergue didn't open until 1pm.  I bought some bread to fix lunch I already had

a tomato and turkey.  Sitting in the square near the Albergue in front of the church.  This Albergue is known for singing nuns.  I ran into Rick from NYC and he said it was the best Albergue he's stayed at.

I got first in line so when the doors opened I'd be assured to get a bed.  The doors opened greeting us with a glass of juice and a cookie.  Taking us one by one to sign in.  The cost 6 eros includes a dinner.  We were asked to contribute someting and put it on the table.  April in the bunk across from me and I agreed to share a wash. I went across the square to the outdoor store to get a pair of socks and a top so I'd have a pair when I did the laundry.   Luckily the store opened on Easter.

We started the laundry and went out about town to find something to contribute

to the dinner.  We discussed the lack of lunch stops for tomorrow too.  We found a little convenience store.  I bought a kilo of cookies, April bought a bottle of wine and some chips.   We hurried back to make the community meeting.  Everyone was invited for a meet and greet.

The hosts started the meet and greet.  One talked in Spanish the other English.  We laughed, got to know more about the people we've been meeting on the path and met some new ones.  A couple that kinda keeps to themselves come from Russia, the husband spoke in English telling us their story.  These two are the first Russians I've met.  Some went on to mass, I took a nap.

Dinner was fun.  Started with a salad, main dish came next potato soup, than a tray of sweets for dessert.  We talked, sang all glad we were here for Easter dinner.

Happy Easter

Spain prides itself in its churches.  I've walked by a lot of them.  Every village no matter how big or how small has a church as its center piece.  A lot of the churches have been locked, the ones that have been open are free or a minimal donation.  I wrote a blog post of one of the churches I went into.  Eloise, the woman hosting pilgrims there, use to play the now defunk pipe organ.  That got me wondering if there was any kind funding to refurbish churches.  This was before Notre Dame burned.  I thought it would be nice to refurbish the pipe organ at this church so that Eloise could play one last time.

The next church I went into an Irish priest I'd been walking with went inside at the same time.  He knew to put a Euro in the slot to light up the Sanctuary. 

When he did the whole church came alive. The priest had said this church was known to have one of the biggest screens.  I didn't know what he meant until the lights went on. The whole Sanctuary shown gold, with figures depicting different events from the Bible.   The figure in the the photo is the Virgin Mother in sorrow, she`s carried around in processions during Holy Week.

Holy Week is an interesting time to be in Spain.  Most villages and towns have some kind of goings on, the medium size towns have processions every night after mass.

Costumes you see people wear at these possessions remined people (and not just Americans) of the KKK.  We saw this in Burgos

at  the first procession at the start of Holy Week.  In Castrojeriz I went to mass and captured the procession on video, its posted on my Facebook page.  Castrojeriz like most small villages is losing population, giving the town the feel of a ghost town at certain times of the day.

Besides Holy Week Spain does have amazing churches, some kept up, some repurposed from the Moores, and some national treasures.

Just remember miracles do happen. Happy Easter everyone!

Smiles All Day until Fromista

Thoughts of today started with a thinking about of arriving at the Albergue in Castrojeriz, it made smile than and made me smile during the day.  The proprietor came and went leaving a sign saying; pick a bed I'll sign you in later.  We hardly saw him.  What made me smile when I walked was the colorful sheets and walls along with photos hanging on the wall.  The Albergue has a legend of two previous pilgrim photographers, Julian Campo and Jose Santino Manzano who lost their lives in a railway accident in 2006.

Enjoyed dinner with friends, mass at the, and a good nights sleep.  In the morning I walked out before dawn to be greeted by the full moon.  Energized I

walked out of town.  Shortly after leaving the town the path went up hill soon.  The full moon followed me all the way up helping to guide me.  The walk today 15.3 miles but I felt up to it. Still shipping my pack to the next destination.

The birds didn't start singing until the sun got high in the sky and then I head them all way to Fromista.  Stopped in the first town for some orange juice and eat the rest of my Spanish tortilla which is made with eggs and potatoes and depending the place other things.  I didn't rest long hoping for lunch and a longer rest in Boadilla del Camino.  At one point on the trail I broke out in song, "I'm so happy, oh so happy."  I walked most of the day alone.  At times I jotted down some thoughts.  This came as an idea when a couple of nights ago someone asked what I thought about while I walked and I couldn't answer because I forgot.

At Boadilla del Camino the path want around the town.  Didn't see any signs for a restaurant so I stopped as I left town, ate cashews and drank some water to

hold me until Fromista.  Continuing on the path led to a canal where a boat runs up and down.  You can make reservations.  Now that would be fun, I love boats but don't have a phone or the Spanish to pull it off.

Arriving at the Albergue Municipal I poked my head in to see if my pack arrived.  There sat one pack, not mine.  I've thought about this scenario for days now so I had a plan and thanks to the proprietor here we pulled it off.  She called the company I'd left an envelope with my bag, they claimed the Albergue in Castrojeriz didn't call them.  We called a cab to pick up the bag for 25 Eros.  Taxis along the Camino solve a lot of problems.  Sore feet, sore knees, keeping with friends and rescuing lost packs.  I have my pack now and about to take a shower.

Grateful for two things to day, Alanna for offering to help with reservations and to the proprietor here for solving the missing pack dilemma.  So far things have ended on a good note.

Birds get an honorable mention.

Albergues aren't Equal

Albergues come in all sizes, some are newly renovated, some are as old as the stone building they're in, some are clean, some aren't.  The proprietor can be picky, or loosey goosey.  There can be 250 beds or nine.  The guide book helps some but just in size and brief description.  Doesn7usually list what the meals are like.  We've had the best and the worst meal at an Albergue.

Last night the Albergue had character.  A wood stove, friendly proprietor, in a small village, an oasis after a rainy day. They filled all the beds and two people slept in the common room.  Albergue Hornillos Municipal's listing says there are 32 beds in three rooms.  The cost 5Eros, 15 with breakfast and dinner.  Hornillos has a population of 70. When the Albergues are full the town population doubles. I heard the one bar in town had two tables.  So what were the choices for meals besides the Albergue.  I paid the 15 Eros.  Last nights Albergue was classy at 5 eros.

The place had little heat when I arrived but the proprietor stocked the

woodstove in the common room starting to make it warm and cozy.  As the evening went on we all gathered in the common room for warmth and company.  We hung our wet stocks above the wood stove, stuffed our shoes with newspaper and set them under the woodstove to dry.

Dinner turned out to be cooked by a volunteer
Frenchman who is a vegetarian.  Cuscus, vegies,

garbanzo beans and almonds, yum, loved all the veggies.  Breakfast on the other hand seemed dim at first. As usual I woke up early packed up and was down in the kitchen by about 5:30.  My headlight on my head I poked around finding the coffee maker set up for hot water, I plugged it in and pushed the button that should have turned it on.  Nothing happened.  By this time the two guys who slept in the common started to get up.  I apologized.  They said they needed to get up.

I looked around to turn the lights on after I tried to get coffee out of the coffee machine and my Ero came back.  Couldn't find one, I found the hall light but not the kitchen lights.  One of the guys that slept in the common room suggested the electricity could be on a timer.  Sure enough at 5:50 all the lights and appliances lit up, the hot water started perking in the pot, the coffee machine cautioned to wait until the water heated and I was able to make hot water for coffee in the microwave.  I already had two bowls of the best granola I've eaten on this trip.

I got out of the Albergue by 6:15, feeling like I was sneaking out in the dead of night.  I dressed for rain.  The morning colder than the morning before with predictions of rain.  I've gone according to my calculations 215.5 miles but this sign says more.

The Rain in Spain

This was the kind of day that you put on your layers with rain gear on top and just start walking.  I first put on a base layer then another layer, than a gortex layer and last but not least a solidly waterproof poncho.  The weak link, shoes and socks.  Oh

well, away I went.  The rain reminds me of home, just a slight rain for hours.

The terrain today entered the Meseta.  Known as the great interior Meseta (plateau or plain) of the Iberian Peninsula, with Madrid at its centre, it extends over 81,000 square miles and has an average elevation of 2,165 feet. It constitutes the oldest and most complex geologic formation of the peninsula. Its western slope is gently inclined toward the Atlantic Ocean and forms the basins of the Duero, Tagus, and Guadiana rivers. To the north the plateau rises abruptly into the Cantabrian Mountains, where where I'm headed.

Even though it rained today the phrase " The Rain In Spain Stays Mainly on the Plain," is misleading.  Rain in Spain does not actually stay here mainly in the plain; it falls mainly in the Green Spain ( the name given to a lush natural region in Northern Spain), the phrase was translated as La lluvia en Sevilla es una maravilla (The rain in Seville is a miracle).

Some say this section is boring.  I say the farmlands look like a smooth green wavey lawn, sounds like a bird sanctuary, taking me on gentle ups and downs.  The small villages roads are still narrow just not as windy.  Good days for day dreaming.

Two people that were my rock on the Camino are no longer with me.  Katherine the social directed went home to Holland, and Garnet did not want to rest for a day.  There are still people here at the Albergue I've met on the walk and I'm meeting new people too.  Nothing stays the same, people, terrain, weather as I move forward on the Camino.

The Unspoken Spoken

The path changes from moment to moment, from rocky to pavement, from village to country side, to forest.  Things you start talking about as the walk moves on, are things you would never mention in you life back home.  Maybe because your defenses are down, you let it all hang out.  Those things are bathroom practises, feet swelling, blisters, along with the many things that can wrong with foot have been looked at, talked about, and treated stranger to stranger people on the path.

Me, I've been fortunate not to have foot problems.  That's not to say that my feet haven't hurt.  After mile upon mile at some point you just want to take your shoes off and let your feet air out.  Coming into Burgos I saw this poster

advertising for care of feet, massage,  and osteopathy.  One person in our crowd already stopped in the middle of the day when he saw a sign advertising blister treatment for the foot.  These  services are getting more and more common as we go.  Me, I wouldn't mind a massage, finding one maybe challenging today on my day of rest.

The other topic is snoring.  A good night is when your in a dorm of 50 people and no one snores.  This doesn't happen very often.  Early on in a room of eight people, one person owned up that she snored.  But in the night the snoring was so loud and so continuous, I was sure it was the guy in the bed next to me.  On the walk the next at lunch a woman who slept in the room owned up to noisy snoring all night.  The I guy I thought was snoring sat next to me.  I apologize to him for thinking that it was him.  In my Camino family there's not a lot of snoring.  Maybe this is one thing that bonds us together and why we book ahead to try to take up whole dorm rooms.

Last but not least going to the bathroom on the Camino, or is it the toilet, the water closet, the bano?  Mostly we talk in innduendos, little hints, rolling eyes, blushed faces.  There's very little detail of our bathroom practices and I won't bore you here about the details.  What I will say is that there never seems to be a bathroom when you need one, trees are hard to find and hills far apart.  You can make up your ideas of what bathroom practices are for all us pilgrims on the Camino.

Spring Moves Winter Over Slowly

Started on the walk yesterday, one by one signs of spring shown themselves.  Flowers popped up here and there, bugs busied themselves on the path, caterpillars moseyed along and snails slithered as I avoided them.

     

The sun was shining.  For the first time I unzipped the legs of my convertible pants.  Got down to one layer on top.  My leg felt better allowing me to walk at a faster pace.  This was going to be a 17+ mile day because we planned to go one town further for better accommodations.  I stopped at a place called the Oasis at the top of one of the

hills. Got a lemon soda and sat down with some friends for a rest.  Rumors started going around the path about than about predictions of thunder showers about 2:30pm.  Being in denial I continued to bask in the sun as I walked towards Ages.  2:30 went and gone. I hoped I was in the clear.  Still in the forest on the walk I could see dark clouds approaching. They moved in with the cold wind.  I put on my rain coat that had been tied on my hips.  Cold rain drops fell with the force of the wind hurting my face.  Then the rain eased and the wind backed off.  I walked as fast as I could trying to stay near the trees for protection.  This went off and on for a couple of miles.  I put my hands on top of my fanny pack to protect my camera.  The last half mile the wind blew back in with a stronger force, lightning and thunder could be heard all around me.  That's when the hail started, stinging on my skin where ever it hit.  I started walking backwards but remembered the iron railing at the gates to keep livestock out and a gate was coming up.  I turned, zipped my coat up put up the hood, protected my camera and kept moving.  Lighting hit just in front of me.  Laura's warnings about walking in lightning storms played in my mind and I walked faster.  The 17 miles I'd already gone couldn't get in the way.  I made it to the Albergue where everyone was staying.  There was no hot water.  All I got that night luckily was a good nights sleep, breakfast and a slightly shorter day today to Burgos.  So far I've walked 188.7 miles.  I'll rest for a day here.