Best Day Yet

It actually started yesterday evening.  I got one of the last beds in town, showered, washed a couple of things and went down the road to have a soda with friends. The town was a buzz with pilgrims enjoying the great weather even with the uphill climb all day.

In the morning I started at my usual 6:30 am.  Leaving a small town before sunset isn't always easy, this morning the moon only showed a sliver of light.  The first part of the day went up hill. 

When I reached the high point of this side of the mountains the sun burst with all its morning colors right at the cross where pilgrims throw rocks.  Legend says that when

the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostella was being built, pilgrims were asked to bring a stone.  The tradition is to bring a stone from where your from, with the pilgrims back to the cross the pilgrim throws the stone symbolizing their journey.  Before I left I remembered I had a stone with the outline of Vashon, I forgot it.  Today I picked up one of the stones someone placed on a Camino sign just before getting to the cross.  I turned my back to the cross, kissed the stone and as I threw the stone I said outloud, "Thank you Camino de Santiago."  I walked on with the day's light guiding me.

The day continued with great views, blooming flowers, and warm sunshine.  I think winter has finally moved on. (I hope)

Great Place, Happy Town, Still Happy

Walked out of Astorga happy.  What a town. Part of the reason I'm  happy is because of all the people that have made comments on my blog and on Facebook I want to thank all of you.  These comments have inspired me to keep moving forward and give me a piece of home here on the Camino.

Last night I ate in the square, where families gathered, children played and pilgrims gathered.  Astorga is alive.  So many of the towns we go through are dying, and they feel like their dying.  Rural Spain depends so much on the Camino for their economy.

Today though was a happy day.  The winter seems to have backed off, the sun shone with temperatures reaching into the 70's.  We climbed up from Astorga 500 meters to Foncebadon where I'm staying to night.  My Camino friend Philippa's birthday is today.  The crowd I've been traveling with made a plan to meet up here in Foncebadon for the shindigs.  Haven't seen a lot of these friends

since the first night I was in Leon.  Hail hail the hangs all here.

Still no blisters, my sore muscle is healed and I for one love the hills.  It reminds me of home.  And the spring/summer, it just doesn't get better than that.  I also had a long phone call with my sweetie.  With only about 150 miles left I'm full confidence.

One Bad Albergue Can be Discouraging

Yesterday after aI left  Villadangos  I walked another 6 miles to the Sana Martin Albergue.  Sylvia, an English woman, and I arrived at the registration desk at the same time.  We both asked for bottom bunks.  The proprietor said he didn't have any.  I noticed on the counter a room with two single beds for 20 Eros.  I looked at Sylvia and asked if she'd mind sharing a room.  She didn't hesitate with a yes.  The room felt cold as soon as we walked in.  Never did find a heater in that room.   First on my agenda, a hot shower.  The shower only had cold water making it a quickie.

Outside in the yard tables with umbrellas sat along the walkway.  The sun shone bright and warm.  Called home via Facebook a couple of times, the connection not so good.  As in so many places the Albergue was the only place to get something to eat. 

The food was good I just wasn't that hungry after the big lunch I had had earlier.  I asked about what time I could get hot water for coffee.  The proprietor said the place is locked up until 7:30 am.  I like to leave at about 6:30 am.

Sylvia turned out to be a great roommate.  She's raised money for Parkinson's for her walk.  She gardens, has kids.  We had a lot in common.  Today, the next day, I got up early and so did Sylvia.  I dropped my pack at the front door with the transport slip filled out and the required 5 Eros in the envelope.  Sylvia and I started walking together, she's fast, so I finally said go on ahead I'm slowing down.

As I look back at the walk today is has been one of the best. Found a great coffee place in about four miles, Sylvia sat eating her breakfast so I slipped in the other side of the booth with my coffee and roll.  The couple I ate dinner with was in the booth behind me.  Looking around in this town I wished I'd had enough energy yesterday to to go a little further.  From there the next town was about 2 or 3 miles, and there sat at a sidewalk table three Americans I hadn't seen in a while and an Irish guy I hadn't seen

in a while.  I sat down for a rest and some good conversation.  This was going to be a 15 mile day.  The sun shone bright  all day as the terrain started to get some ups and downs along with some great views.

I entertain myself with taking pictures.  There's always something catching my eye. Two problems worried me all day.  Will my pack get the Albergue and will they have a bed.  I thought about getting a phone to make calls reassuring these two necessities for a while now.  Thinking it would just take one more miss shipped bag to make a cheap prepaid phone worth it.

As yesterday day I walked into Siervas de Maria, the first Albergue, thinking if my bag is there I may try another one, if my bag wasn't there I only hoped they would help me recover the pack from where ever it is.   As soon as I walked in this Albergue I felt welcomed and at home.  My pack was there, got a bottom bunk, a hot shower and am washing and
drying almost everything I own including my sleeping bag.  I'm writing this out on a covered porch with this view while waiting for the dryer to be done.  Life is good today.

The Landscape is Changing

As soon as I got beyond Leon I could see snow capped mountains in three directions. In theee days we'll start the mountain climb again.  Hopefully with

the next couple of days of nice weather the snow will be melted.  Mostly on my own now I decided to stick to the main route.

The guide book I've been following suggestion for today's stopping point, Villadangos del Paramo.  When I arrived I walked right through town without seeing a sign for the one and only Albergue.  The marked route took us through on a side street.  I turned left to get to the main street found a restaurant, went in showed a man my book, pointing to the Albergue description.  He pointed me back to the way I came in. After asking several people the last person pointed to the picture in the book.  Now I knew what I needed to look for.  Found it right away.

By the time I got to the Albergue I'd already decided I wanted to go the 5km to San Martin del Camino but I needed to pick up my pack.  I looked around found the packs delivered by the transport company, mine wasn't there.  The proprietor ignored me at first, walking away.  Then walking around, I approached him and said, "Are you going to help me call my hotel or should I go somewhere else?"  He walked to the front desk, pulled out his phone.  I got my pad of paper and wrote Petit Leon Hotel.  He dialed the number then handed me the phone.  The guy on the other end said he sent the pack by a different transport and the pack should arrive in about an hour or two,

Seeing how it was past noon I went back to the restaurant to get lunch.  On the way I found a Comino credential,  thinking someone wouldn't want to lose this I picked it up off the ground.  I opened it and guess what, it was mine.  Guess I wasn't tracking very well having already gone 13 miles, not finding the Albergue nor my bag.  Luckily I ate a great lunch, just what I needed.  As I walked back to the Albergue I prepared myself not to expect my bag there.

When I walked in the door of there sat my bag.  I swung it on my back told the proprietor thank you and took off down the road to the next town.  As I walked I

kept noticing motorcycle police riding down the road.  Lots of them.  I decided its either some kind of special event or it's the president of Spain about to come down the road.  It turned out to be a bicycle race.

Here's some photos for all my bicycle friends.  I'm save and sound at the Albergue in San Martin del Camino for the night.

A Day of Rest

Promised myself Leon would be a city of rest for me after 300 miles of walking.  I booked a hotel for two nights to get some time to myself.  Haven't done this since St Jean.  With a rest day comes errands.  Upon arrival I go over the list of the what I've left behind either on purpose by accident or what I thought I wanted along the way.  I've left my head lamp but replaced it perty quick because a flashlight of some kind is a must in any dormitory.  I've replaced my shampoo, which I'm doubling as soap which I forgot somewhere. I've left my five day pill box but can't find a replacement.

Ditched my heavey socks because they seemed to have a potential of giving me blisters.  I've gotten a new pair but after walking in rain, snow, and hail all day I don't want to be stuck with just one extra pair of socks so here in Leon I found a pair with built in liners.  We'll see how they do.  Some insight into shoes or socks no matter what your past experience is there is no guarantee you won't get blisters.  I met a woman a couple of days ago, she's doing her second Camino.  She said she owned two pairs of hiking shoes, the old pair she hiked with before and a new pair.  She opted to bring the old pair because they never gave her blisters leaving the new pair at home.  The old pair is now giving her blisters.

Other elements have been on my mind, one of which is the wind.  The winds on the Camino sometimes come on in an instant accompanied by dark clouds at least up until now. Or as the day goes on the wind builds never allowing the sun to warm us along the path.  Another base layer might come in handy if I walk in the rain again.  I don't want to be caught at an Albergue that doesn't have a dryer to dry my one pair of hiking socks and one base layer I brought with me.  Besides I'm always looking forwindproof layers for other activitlike bicycling and sailing.  I found the perfect base layer here in Leon.

The end of the rest day and I'm ready to start walking tomorrow.  The weekend's weather is looking good.

Coming into Leon

Approaching any city, town or village along the Camino you see the steeple of the church or cathedral at the center of the community before you see the rest of the town.  These religous structures built centuries ago remind us today of the Roman and Moore influence in the area.  The Cathedrals in Burgos and Leon exemplify gothic architecture.  I've visited both of them now and I would be hard pressed to come up with which one I would say is the best, is the most beautiful.

Coming into Leon rounding a hill the cathedral showed me where the path

would take me.  It told me where the old part of the city is.  The distance seemed overwhelming even after all the walking I've done.

Visiting the cathedral here in Leon today gave me some insights into the other churches I've visited along the way.  I know nothing about gothic architecture.  What I learned today, is the cathedral structures became possible because of the new ceiling support structures that give the ceilings of all the churches I've been in, an artist pattern.

The Cathedral of Burgos (Santa María de Burgos) is, along with the Cathedral of León, the largest Gothic construction on the French Way, and in Spain. Declared a World Heritage Site in 1984, the famous needles on the tops of the towers are very recognisable, a type of decoration that is typical of the German late Gothic style.  The fine carved textures design on these famous needles brings to mind fine lace when I look at them.

The stone figures at every turn fascinate me.  The Virgin Mary more prominent then I would have thought.

A Much Needed Day

After a day of cold and snow, I settled into the Albergue in Mansilla.  Took a somewhat warm shower, got my wet clothes dried, worked at drying my shoes at the

one heater between the two dorm rooms upstairs in the building at the other end of the courtyard.   Hung out with some people I hadn't seen in a couple of days. The Internet can only be accessed down stairs either in the office, which was the warmest room in the place,or the kitchen, the second warmest room in the place.

Asked the woman in the office where a good restaurant was.  She directed me to on just a couple of blocks away.  Great choice, they served the best roasted bass I've eaten in a long time.  We've crossed over into a new food region, the potatoes come in a home cooked potato chip style.  For dessert I could even get decaffeinated coffee with milk to go along with the cheese cake.  The hot drink warmed my insides.  As I left the restaurant I spotted the two women who ran the office at the Albergue in the bar.  I popped in and said thank you, I had a great meal.

Back at the Albergue the kitchen buzzed with activity.  Two home made meals, wine and good conversation lingered at the tables.  I sat at the table where I

heard English, and new most of the people.  I talked to the young Irish guy who studies to be a chef.  The first thing he said to me was, "good job today, the Irish woman said you inspired her to keep going through the snow."  He pushed his, body back in the the chair, acknowledge the the women, she raised her glass to me, I did the same in the true Camino spirit we were thankful of each other.

The next day was an easy 11 mile day into Leon where I have booked a hotel room for two nights just for me, aaaaah a room of one's own.  This thought kept me going all next day.  Great full the threatening rain never poured on me.