Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Daily Life of a Peace Corps Tranee

Many have asked about my daily routine and what I eat. Since arriving in Philadelphia for “Staging” or orientation if you don’t know Peace Corps jargon we have had training from 8 AM till 5 PM Monday through Saturday with a litany of homework projects for Sunday.

Once here in Mali we were at Tubaniso for four days with trainings in Cross Cultural, Safety and Security, Language, Health, and last but lest our sector training, which for me is Small Enterprise Development.

Now that we have been at home stay most of our class time is taken up with language, I am learning French. I wish I was learning Bambara because that is the language most Malians speak where I will be living. Malians speak Bambara in their homes, at the market and at their work place. They say French is spoken at formal meetings and it is true most educated Malians speak French but only in formal settings.

As for the food it can be summed up in two words RICE, SAUCE!!! Or sometimes I get millet and sauce or To (pronounced toe, a thick millet pudding not sweet) and sauce. I get this for every lunch and every dinner. The women and children gather around a huge stainless steel bowl and we eat with our hands, only our right hand unless you’re the two year old in training but he has gotten better. The number changes around the bowl depending on what family members are present and right now Ramadan has just started so for lunch it was me and the kids. There are three nieces staying here and the oldest married daughter and her two kids along with a niece that lives here regularly. This is on top of the three daughters and two sons that live here.

For a treat we get fried plantains or french fries and Sunday night we got onions and liver, I happen to like liver. As for protein there just never seems like enough. There is little meat in the sauce at meals. The oldest at the bowl doles out the meat to different parts of the bowl and I have been told never eat anywhere in the bowl but right in front of you. So each person gets about two small pieces of meat on lean days and more on other days. At my house we don’t get beans a lot but I have seen black eyed peas and white beans in the markets. They say don’t drink milk unless it has been processed. I know for a fact my host mom buys raw milk from the herder that wonders around Moribabougou. You can find yogurt but here in Moribabougou it is very sweet. I had some in Sagou and it was not as sweet and really good. That about sums up the protein options.

There are street venders that sell mostly fried foods. There is a doughnut like pastry made from millet flour that is not real sweet but taste good, they sell beef skewers marinated usually with mustard these are good if you can chew them. We get the beef skewers and french fries at the only restaurant we have found in Moribabougou, Clean Air. As for going to a restaurant even the toboob (slang for white person here in Mali) restaurants there is no guarantee that you will get your order so we have learned never to pay for our food until it arrives.

Rationing the energy bars I brought has been a good thing. I like the Odwalla ones the best but they all are a good source of protein and vitamins. There are days at meal time when just coming to the bowl and looking at the rice and sauce I loose my appetite. I have been sick twice. Once I had amebas and the other they never did figure out the problem. After being sick I avoided the rice and sauce for several days by going to the medical unit and finding places in Bamako to eat once I felt like eating. One of my best finds was a market that sold cashews. They are a good source of protein and they are grown in Mali but you can’t find them in most food places.

Gardens of corn, okra, beans and squash are every where and being the rainy season they are growing fast and are about to harvest the corn

So that’s the food situation here in Mali, I can hardly wait to get to my site where hopefully I will have a two burner gas stove and maybe even a refrigerator. There are some vegetables and they say the rainy season food is scarcer than any other time of the year because this is the growing season and what is grown now is for the whole year.

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